We recently went on holiday to Southern Zimbabwe and there is one thing I’m learning about life in the tourism industry, you are never really “off duty.” Although the trip had been planned months before I started Heartveld Adventures, I took the opportunity to do a couple of site visits to lodges in the area.
The reason for our visit to Matopos was because my husband, who is in his 40’s, had never been to Matopos – can you believe that?! This just reinforced my desire and reason for forming this company: to highlight for Zimbabweans, as well as international visitors, exactly what Zim has to offer and how easy it is to access.
Our first accommodation was at the Matopos National Parks Lodges. Some of our party had to cancel and we had to amend the booking, so we had been communicating with various members of the Reservations staff. The staff were all very helpful, and ensured there were no mix-ups in the complicated bookings I had made. I have to mention that the lodges are all very close together, and only a few have views. The lodges we stayed in had recently been completely refurbished, with brand new beds, linen, curtains, crockery and cutlery. The beds were the most comfortable I have slept in on my travels.
Our first site visit was to Big Cave Camp, and we were hosted by the most delightful Manageress by the name of Lin. She has lived in the area for many years, and so has a good local knowledge of pretty much everything. She personally showed us around the camp, and we were very impressed with the gorgeous views from each and every room, as well as amazing bird life. Big Cave Camp also boasts a camp site for those wanting to self-cater.
Next up was Amalinda Lodge. All I can say is wow, wow, wow! My amateur photos of the rooms DO NOT do them justice, they are all so uniquely individual. I think my favourite room was the one that actually has a rock painting on one of the “walls” inside your room. When asking about this lodge, everyone commented on the lodge pool, and once we saw it I could see why. It was an infinity pool that looked out over the Matopos landscape, for me the most beautiful pool I’ve seen so far.
The difference between Big Cave Camp and Amalinda Lodge rooms (as Lin explained) is that Big Cave Camp is built “on top” of the huge granite kopjies of the area, while Amalinda Lodge is pretty much built “into the rocks.” They are both really unique and well worth a stay if you are in the area.
In between all the Site Visits, we did manage to get out and about and see what a beautiful park Matopos really is. It is so full of history, which my husband soaked up like a sponge. Rhodes Grave is of course a MUST, but be warned, it is a bit of a walk up the granite rocks to the grave site. Once you are up there it is well worth the huffing and puffing. Not many people know before going up to Rhodes grave, but also on top of this massive granite kopjie are the grave sites of Sir Leander Starr Jameson and Sir Charles Patrick John Coghlan, along with the Allan Wilson and the Shangani Memorial, all of which are a part of Zimbabwean history.
The Matopos National Park also boasts Rhino Tracking of the endangered white rhino. After hiring a professional guide, we set off for our tracking expedition. Of huge benefit is, the fact that the rhino all have their own personal security guards, day and night, in the form of heavily armed game scouts. We were very blessed to find a group of 4 rhinos, they had just woken up and then proceeded to a stream for a drink – making it the perfect photo opportunity. Sadly, we hardly saw other game while driving around the park. What we did find, after another pretty steep walk up, were the cave paintings at Nsvatuka Cave. Standing on the site where centuries ago, an artist made up his own paint and drew from his life’s experiences, this was certainly humbling.
While driving back through Bulawayo, we took the opportunity to stop at the Bulawayo Railway Museum, a place Woody has wanted to go to for ages, and it didn’t disappoint. The curator of the museum, Gordon, worked on the railways himself from the 70’s. He is a true railway fanatic, and is still very passionate and knowledgeable about all things train related. Upon entrance you are issued with actual old train ticket stubs as your entrance tickets. What a blast from the past! Although the exhibits could do with a bit of a clean-up, if you are in Bulawayo, and especially if you have children, I think it is important to take your kids to view this fascinating part of our heritage.
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