When doing research about Hwange National Park and the lodges in and around the area I was surprised to hear that the Imvelo lodges (Bomani and Camelthorn) offer a very unique transfer into camp – via train! It is called the Elephant Express and has been running since 2014. It starts at Dete Train Station and takes you on a relaxing 2 hour ride to the Ngamo Siding, which is just a short drive from both Lodges. I knew that as soon as my train mad husband heard about this, I would not need to convince him to take the long drive to Hwange from Kariba and I was spot on
When we got to Dete Station we were extremely fortunate, in that on that particular transfer day, we were the only ones on the train! This enabled my husband to spend one on one time with the drivers: Enock and Joseph. Enock was the pioneer driver for the Elephant Express, and before that, he worked for the National Railways of Zimbabwe for 33 years, so he has many many hours of experience. We were also met at the train by our guide for the duration of our stay, Aubz, who served us a nice cold lunch and even nicer G & T’s along the trip!
One of the perks of transfer into camp like this is the chance to see all sorts of wildlife, as the train track is actually the demarcation of the boundary of the national park and the communal lands, and as there are no fences, animals cross freely back and forth. Aubz made a point of getting Enock to stop the train at a certain spot where a simple plank has been nailed to a tree and simply reads “Cecil’s Tree.” This marks the spot the now famous lion, was lured out of the national parks, and then shot by a hunter on private land. It was a very sad story, but Aubz told us the good that has come from Cecil’s death – hunters now have to have a National Parks authority with them whenever they participate in a hunt. So, Cecil did not die in vain and his legacy lives on.
Upon arrival at Ngamo Siding, a safari vehicle was waiting for us and Aubz drove us the few minutes to Bomani Tented Camp. Because we had limited time in Hwange, instead of spending the remainder of the late afternoon relaxing in camp, we went straight back out again for a game drive to the famous “Staffie’s Hide.” This is a 20ft container that has been basically buried next to a pan, with a section cut out of it, so that you can view, and photograph whatever wildlife comes to the waterhole to drink, elephants being the favoured viewing species. (Ladies, don’t worry, there IS a flush toilet built in.) Sadly, we were too late in the season to be able to use the hide, as during the rains it is closed due to the flooding risk. But at least we got to view it, and have added it to our bucket list of things to one day do. Instead, we had ice-cold sun downers overlooking the pan, with snacks cleverly brought along at short notice. (FYI, bush brunches can be organised at the hide at no extra cost.)
After a nice cool drive, we were soon back at Bomani for our dinner, served outside, under the stars. It was a 3 course meal, and I have to mention, that although we were in the middle of the bush, the meal was stupendous! Compliments to the chef – it was undoubtedly the best meal we’ve had at a lodge so far. After all that food, we were shown to our “Spurwing Honeymoon Suite”, and felt very spoilt with the claw foot bath and “his and hers” basins, with plenty of hot water provided by the Rhodesian style boilers we had noted outside. After a busy day, and with a busy one still ahead, we were soon fast asleep, listening to the calming sounds of the bush.
The following morning we were up early to have a light continental breakfast, before heading out on a school tour and village visit. Sadly, it was school holidays, so we were unable to do a proper tour of Ngamo Primary School, which is supported by both Imvelo Safari Lodges and Children of the Wilderness. Aubz actually grew up in this area and so it was very interesting to hear his first-hand account of what it used to be like before, and what it is like now, after the lodges have got involved. The community as a whole has most certainly benefited, and there are more ideas and projects in the pipework.
We did manage to do the village visit and met with the village headman, Mazai, and his wife Spiwe with their little girl, fittingly named “Lastborn.” Mazai’s village is made up of 94 homesteads, and the villages grow dry-land maize, watermelons and pumpkins. Some villagers also raise cattle and chickens, but the chickens have a hard time surviving, being so close to the national parks and all the birds of prey which catch the chickens as easy prey. Mazai himself is a self-taught carpenter, so has that as an added income. It was very interesting to have a tour of his homestead, and see how Spiwe makes maize-meal out of the maize once reaped, and see how talented Mazai is in his woodworking. He has been contracted to make various furniture for the lodges nearby, so we knew it was very possible when we had lunch that day that we were sitting on his hand crafted chairs!
After our village tour, we took a trip to Bomani’s sister lodge, Camelthorn lodge, which was just a short distance away. This lodge is completely different to Bomani, as opposed to the lodge being tented and overlooking a waterhole, this lodge is stone built, with thatching, and located in natural acacia woodland. Its feel is more romantic, and instead of tented rooms, you have stone villas, complete with fireplace and upstairs outdoor maisonette. My favourite feature was the suites that had a private splash pool upstairs, so you could sit in the cool water, up amongst the treetops, while watching and listening to the amazing bird-life. This is a “twitcher’s” paradise!
If you are looking for something a little different, then consider the Elephant Express Rail Train to either Bomani or Camelthorn Lodges. Not many people can say they went to a National Park via train! Our stay was far too short, and we definitely want to go back one day, at a time when we can enjoy the underground hide and the fireplaces at Camelthorn lodge.
My personal rating of:
- Best meal at Bomani Tented Lodge
- Most Romantic Lodge is Camelthorn Lodge
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